Leaving the marina in November

Leaving the marina in November

Tuesday, January 31, 2017

Georgetown, Great Exuma

We have been in the Georgetown / Great Exuma Island area for a week now, mostly sitting in less than pleasant weather.  We arrived just before a strong northerly front, sheltered by Goat Cay, then moved  to the well sheltered Red Shanks area and then up to the Kidd Cove area and will move over to Stocking Island, the center of the cruisers’ activity.  We met Bill on Grand Dragon in Red Shanks, more about him in a future post. But his boat fits right in with the Pirate Festival in Beaufort and he has attended several times in the past. Amy says I am destined to become Bill in the future.  Also about salvaging the wreck of the catamaran Shamrock.  It has been overcast all day, have not been off the boat for over 30 hours and the solar panels barely put out any current today.  Good thing the wind generator has been spinning like crazy.  As of 9 pm, the batteries are at 78% capacity. 


Georgetown is reported to be the 4th largest “city” in the Bahamas but it seems like a small town in Mexico sometimes.  Whit, the bartender at Club Blu ( and we missed happy hour tonight) , thought there were about 300 people in the town.  Sad to say that I know the names of more bartenders in the Exumas than in all of the rest of the world combined.  The cruisers boat count was 180 boats ( mid 20 feet to a 200 ft mega yacht) this morning and all of us come over to Georgetown at least once a week, often more than that if you do not have a water maker on board.

 The center of the cruisers world is Lake Victoria and the entrance was probably cut by the British when the Bahamas were still part of the empire.  Less than 15 feet wide, less than 6 feet of clearance under the bridge at high tide, and only about 2 feet of water at low tide, the entrance often has a strong current for  the dinghy’s to contend with.  Once inside the approximately 5 acre lake, there are 4 docks that all cruisers will go to.  
First on the right is the Shell station floating dock with the 4 foot step up at low tide.  Then a 75 ft walk to the diesel pump.  This is the more popular fuel station being next door to the big liquor store with cars often waiting in the street.
Next is Mim’s Water Sports.  They only have gas, no diesel and they add the 7.5% VAT on top of the fuel cost ( the Shell station does not) but Mim’s has a fuel hose right on the dock so you do not even have to take your dinghy tank out.  With Stocking Island being about 2 miles away, a fast dingy is quite valued and you want to keep the fuel topped off.
Across the lake is the Shoprite dock ( also for the Batelco store and Eddies Edgewater Café)
By far and away, the most popular and often crowded dock is for the Exuma Market dock.  Not only is it in the best condition, but there is a FREE !! water spigot and hose right on the dock and sometimes you need to wait in line to fill your  5 gallon water jugs.

So you tie up your dingy, haul your bag of trash up and deposit it into the L&L trash mini truck and drop in a few dollars thru the window.  Turn left and the Exuma Market is the one place every cruiser stops at.  Picture a small old IGA/ Piggy Wiggy or old A & P where  the food prices are double what you are used to paying…..that is the BEST store in Georgetown The best time is stop is right after the supply boat comes in…The choices go down as the next 6 days pass.

Across the bridge is the 700 Liquor Store, we stop there at least weekly as do most cruisers.  A case of beer is about $45 so we buy the cheapest $10 bottle of rum.  Past the Shell station is Top2Bottom with it’s 30 inch aisles and prices to make West Marine to seem a real bargain.  But at least they have anything you might need for your boat, or your house, even toys for your kids!

Next is the 2 Turtles bar and restaurant with free WIFI.  Beyond is the school and then the little library.  It is only open from 10 am to noon, 6 days a week, staffed by volunteers, mostly fellow cruisers.  The yearly dues are $3 and they have a large book swap and a substantial lending section, mostly fiction.  We traded in 8 books and took 8 new ones to read.

Up the street is the beautiful old Anglican church at the top of the hill.  It has the best view in town.  The Anglican school is next door and the Peace and Plenty hotel is across the street.  Also beautiful inside but we have not yet been there for their famous “rack and scrape” evenings.

Coming back into town is the government center on the left, then the regatta viewing stands and next to them, the commercial port.  I believe 2 boats ( the mail boat and the supply boat) arrive each week.   Next door is the police station, then the straw market tent ( the original straw market building burned down recently) and then Trainee’s beauty pallor.  Trainee also sells frozen fish out of the big freezer at the other side of the beauty pallor. Sometimes she has lobsters as well. 

 Cross the Lake Victoria bridge and a few more buildings and you arrive at the Exuma Yacht Club Marina with Club Blu upstairs. The marina took a beating from Hurricane Mathew and is barely operational. Only a few slips are useable and it looks like it will be a good year before all is back in place. 

Doi Boy has his shop next door.  If you want to import anything ( think spare parts for your boat), Doi Boy is the person to arrange it and get it thru customs and ready for you to pick up.  There are several boarded up shops, a few more churches, several insurance agencies and a couple roadside stands selling vegetables ( boxes look to be from the US) and some souvenirs.   Unfortunately, the little ice cream stand was lost in the hurricane but there is a sign saying a new one will open soon. 

Time to get back into your dingy, fill your 5 gallon water jugs and head back to your boat.  We have not yet gone north of town but we here there is an excellent butcher shop and a real hardware store.  

Next up is Chat N Chill and Volleyball beach and the playground for old cruisers.  

Friday, January 27, 2017

$15 million abandonded

We had not stopped at Lee Stocking Island previously but we had heard that there were many coconuts there now.  This used to be the Caribbean Marine Research Center where they invested $15 million dollars and then walked away and left it abandoned!  All the buildings are there, most have been stripped of copper wire and plumbing fixtures but some of what was left surprised us.  In only a couple short years, the weather has taken the toll on the buildings and the land is quickly taking the rest back.  But the coconuts are doing great and we managed to find 2 small sprouted ones that now are growing on the boat. We stayed 3 days here and explored almost every building, including their Home Depot.  Some of the housings had tremendous views and it must have been a true joy to be able to work here.
The weather was calm and we were able to take the dingy out around to the ocean side and dive on some huge exquisite elkhorn coral.  There was an old lifeboat washed up on the rocks  just on shore marking the spot.  Just as were got back into the dingy, we were surprised to see a Bahamas police boat come to ask if we were fishing with a spear ( we weren’t) but we have noticed a lot more visibility by the police boats this trip.

I had heard some steel drum music and some singing from another boat and on my way to shore, I stopped by to say I enjoyed the music.  They  ( Tom and Jane on Double Life) invited me on boat, quickly supplied me with a rum punch and next thing I knew, I was playing along on some rattle type instrument they supplied.  Jane was still learning to play but I thought she was doing great.  They invited us for dinner on board along with another couple  for a great mahi mahi fish dinner with lobster antenna.  The next day, Ryan and Renee from Povera stopped by with the rest of the fish which we had to 2 more dinners.




















After Black Point, we sailed down to Little Farmers Cay which we had visited on the prior trip.  We both thought it looked a little less prosperous than before and the whole island was out of water due to the RO (reverse osmosis) plant being down.  Even Ty’s Beach Club bar was closed ( we were anchored just 100 yards from the club).
Next we passed David Copperfield’s Musha Cay and Rudder Cut Cay.  We explored the 2 large caves by dingy and then had to ask to find  “The Piano”.  Not sure of the actual story but David Copperfield had a piano and mermaid sunk just off Rudder Cut Cay.  Unfortunately the current was quite strong  and Amy was not able to dive down. 
Next we decided to be a little adventurous and sailed to the Pimilcos which we were only able to do because the wind was calm and the tide full.  We often only had 12 inches of water under our keels and it was a windy, intricate course to follow.  We stopped at the East Pimilicos and dingied all around them with  no other boats in sight.  I suspect very few boats  take this route.

Then it was on to Lee Stocking Island and the Caribbean Marine Research Center.
















Sunday, January 15, 2017

The winds have been blowing strongly out of the NE and E for 2 weeks now and have dropped the water temperature from just over 80 down to a chilly 69 so no swimming and snorkeling for a while.  We met up with Allegro again on the south side of Black Point, in Little Bay.  Allegro is a 44 ft cat out of Newtown, CT with their 3 boys on board and we first saw them at a distance when we were crossing into the Bahamas, and a couple times again along the way.  Their dingy outboard quit so they have to paddle everywhere until they can buy a new one in Georgetown.  They were kind enough to offer to fill out portable water tanks as they were running their watermaker.  With 5 on board, they run it nearly every day.

Black Point is a community of about 200+ people and one of the friendliest islands we have been do.  They have a free water spigot close to the beac, several business that offer free WIFI ( assuming you use their business, and some interesting people.
We went down to White Point for the night and now heading back to Little Bay to meet Regina Maris, the same boat we left with from New Bern.  We have talked with them several times on the VHF radio but have not seen them since before Christmas.
















We are uploading from Scorpios again with Marybeth and David.